The Laos trip: Kruang Si Waterfall, Day 6

Nearing to the end of the Laos story. I hope most of you liked it. I know I did!

After a day and a half of watching temples, and walking around Luang Prabang, we decided that on our last afternoon we will visit the nearby Kruang Si Waterfall. After a little research we found that it is the best we go with a travel agency, where they organised a shared transportation but offered all to freely enjoy the waterfalls in their own pace.

The waterfall is not one tall fall, but a series of smaller falls, and little ponds between them, where you can enjoy a swim if you wish. Since my son really wanted ( at least until he found out that this "sea" is very cold) we tried. But just for a short time; it was fun.

Instead more talk, have a look on some photos, and decide, what you think. I know we liked there.

The Laos trip: Luang Prabang, Wat Pahouak, Day 5

Wat Pahouak isn't particularly a big Wat, nor a magnificent one. So, why I choose to include it, if I saw many which more beautiful ones, that I skipped? Wat Pahouak merited its own post, and you will see why soon.

The Wat is just a bit offside of the staircase leading up to Pousi Stupa on the top of the hill, but I think they get considerably more visitors. However I am a curious type. What really caught my attention first was the sign by the door. I Include the photo above to read it:

Inside there were these murals, and compare to the small side, it was easy to see that it had been a beautiful small Wat (temple) in the past. Unfortunate, most would need renovation soon, before they can't be restored anymore. After some photos, I realised two more things.

First, that nobody else is there. And that made the second even more strange. There was a big table with different size of little paintings, pictures, and such, with a donation box, and a book to record transactions. I mean by yourself, as nobody was there!! We had a look, and saw they included some recommended donation price on the back of the pictures, by pencil. I don't know, but for some reason I really got touched by the moment, being in a small temple all alone, and having the trust in people not to just take away anything. Not as I would do that, but you might know what i mean. I afraid not all like this.

In the end we ended up two nice pictures, consider it as an entrance fee. The price was really cheap, and now framed (now, that cost 3 times the pictures price!) they are decorating our homes. Not only they look good on the wall, but also a memoir of the Laos trip, and of Wat Pahouak.

The Laos trip: Luang Prabang, Phou Si Stupa, Day 5

Still Day 5, and still temples. Just thought the whisky will give a little break from temples, and maybe something to wonder, how it would taste the snake whisky. I haven't tried, I don't know.

If you haven't been yet in Luang Prabang, from its geography there is two things to know: the Mekong river hug it around from three sides, kinda looks like a peninsula, and that in the middle of the city there is a hill, called Phou Si. And where else could be the Phou Si Stupa, than on the top.

The really think to motivate tourists, because at the bottom of the hill there is a sign telling you that it is 198 steps to get to the top. Good thing the stairway isnt too steep. On the way there is some frangipani trees and others, and the whole thing was real peaceful.

Once on the top there is a magnificient view over the town, and the weather was clear enough to see the surrounding mountains, and the Mekong to disappear in the distance. And yes, there is the Phou Si Stupa. It is like every stupa, like an upside-down turned bell, though this was more looked like a little tower. All shiny golden, as it is mostly. Maybe you found out, the stupa was the excuse to climb all that 198 steps, what we really went to see was the view. Should you be there, go for the view as well! That is the real attraction.

Lao special: Snake Whisky

Being away for over a week from home is not that simple anymore, since we have the rabbits. Lucky for us, our friend Khun Jazz was kind enough to come over and feed them. In fact as we found later out, she did a very good job, the rabbits seemed to be twice the size we remembered!

For all this help, we certainly wanted to have some gift for them, and in that something Lao.
There is a night market ( maybe evening would be more proper as they finish at 10PM) every day in Luang Prabang, turning a segment of the main street asphalt into stalls, where they sell their crafts and souvenirs. And here we stumbled upon this special present: the Snake Whisky. Look a bit morbid, in a way remind me of those tequila bottles, though the worms are considerable smaller then this snake. They claim it works as a medicine too, but someone have to test that for me to prove.


Anyway, I couldn't pass on it, as I knew they like new things to try; once even tasted my cooking! OK, actually I am a good cook, so, they were not in danger (I cook European, don't do Thai dishes). Later I also see at some restaurant that have enormous bottles with matching big snakes in the whisky, where you could buy by shot.


As it turned out, it was a good choice, they liked the look, and there was the surprise factor too. I don't know if they tasted, yet I always forgot to ask.

Just for a side note: early this week I had almost the chance to try to make my own snake whisky, as we had another snake in our garden. The 3rd times in 4 month. I don't know what happened lately, before we did not have at all. Anyway, was thinking late, I think headless it would not look the same in the bottle. Maybe the next intruder?!

The Laos trip: Luang Prabang, Wat Mai, Day 5

Thinking over, I realised that we saw way more Wat (temples) that most would mind to see, I just try to share some of the more memorable one.

Wat Mai (or Wat May Souvanhnaphoumaram) was the most beautiful of all the Wats we saw in Luang Prabang. It is on the main street of the downtown, and by the street might not look too special for the first sight. But better you have another look! You don't want to miss out on this one! So much, like I didn't have a decent photo of the whole building to show.

For start, the temple's walls by outside by the entrance fully gold plated, they look amazing. I haven't seen anything like this before. But this is not everything!

They have a copy of the Emerald Buddha ( the one from Thailand's Wat Phra Kaew) that you can actually see from really near by, and even photo, unlike the one in Thailand. Inside from around head height to ceiling the walls are covered with small golden Buddha 'amulets', little Buddha images; probably there is a few thousands of them.

Same like before, let the photos talk rather. Enjoy.

The Laos trip: Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang, Day 4

After some break, it is time to continue the Laos trip story!

So, leaving Vang Vieng we chose bus ( they also offer minibus as well), a so called VIP bus, what left 10AM from Vang Vieng and supposed to arrive to Luang Prabang 6 hours later, around 4PM. Did I use the word suppose? Yes. The correct one, as you will see.

All started fine, 9:30 AM a smaller bus collected us, and others, and send us to the bus station.

We were on the road in time.

Though they name the bus VIP, it is more like 2Nd class, with no toilet. But whatever, it is only 6 hours, right?!

As said, it is all started out good. After Vang Vieng, the road is mostly curves, cant remember much as 2 km straight road. But the scenery is amazing, breathtaking, fantastic.

More into the travel, the hills changed to mountains, the valleys ever deeper, and the road lead on the edge, giving a continuous panoramic view to them.

And around halfway, the problems started. We stopped, then soon stopped again, and then some more. They said it was something about the oil, but also we lost air-conditioning somewhere on the way. First it was hot, later the opposite. In the mountains air can cool down surprisingly fast, after sunset. Good, it didn't snow, but I was definitely feeling cold. Like long time not. Didn't like it, I can tell you!

We arrived finally around 9:30PM to Luang Prabang, after 11 and half hour on the bus ( and on the side, waiting to be patched up to go a bit again). So much about the 6 hours ride, or being there in the afternoon.

There we got the next problem. To find guesthouse was an a la minute task, but was planned for the afternoon, not for 10 PM, with a sleepy kid.

As it was, most rooms were already taken, but with some luck, after half hour we found a suitable one, which we could stay. A fast sandwich from the street for dinner, and in no time we were asleep after this memorable bus ride.

this was our bus. during one of the "unscheduled stop"

this I wished to be our bus! btw, we also broke down here too, where half of the road was missing!

the montains are beautiful. a real scenic ride.

The Laos trip: Vang Vieng, Day 3

Having a little research about what else to see, we settled to go and explore the famous Phu Kham Cave, and the Blue Lagoon.

This is around 7 km trip out of Vang Vieng, so, we chose to rend bicycles, as it was offering a more relaxing and fun trip then the faster motorbike.

Passing through the bridge to the other side of the Song River a dirt road lead to the cave.

On the way we passed numerous other caves, what they have signs advertising, and few small villages, and countless rice fields.

The day were pretty, it was really a good choice to go with bicycle.

We arrived to the cave and lagoon maybe in an hour and half, as we were not in a hurry at all.

The lagoon was a small river, probably with a dam somewhere a bit further down, but first we went to see the cave.

On the bottom of the way up you could rent some headlight gears for a small fee.

The way up is a hard climb, near vertical up on some place slippery rocks. Was real pleased that my son made it without complain, with some help, but that is normal, he is 6.

Once up, had a minute relaxing, and then descended to the cave.

Found a big cave, in the middle some reclining Buddha image, as locals also use it maybe as a kind of shrine the cave.

There were stalactites and stalagmites, and some dropping water here and there. Pretty, but not the built out type of cave, so, it was little difficult to move around.

After seeing what we could, found out that descending from the cave is worse than climbing up, but again, passed this obstacle as well.

And down was the Blue Lagoon, inviting us to a swim.

The water was beautiful turquoise blue, and crystal clear, with the fishes clearly visible around.

It was refreshingly cool, but for my surprise also very deep, so, my son could not really swim, just a few laps holding to my neck and back. Fun, for him, but not much of air for me when he does use my neck to get a hold. It felt great to swim, as by afternoon the day really turned hot.

On the way back we stopped a bit at another small river by a village, watched the kids jumping from the bridge to the water and playing.

Back to Vang Vieng, before dinner we bought the ticket to Luang Prabang, as our time finished here.

The Laos trip: Vang Vieng, Day 2

As mentioned prior, we arranged some program with a travel agency.

Wanted something family friendly, but also something different, so it was caves + kayaking back on the river. They use the sea kayaks, so, they are ok, easy to navigate. As now the dry season set in and the water level is lower, the river isnt that dangerous, though if is still pretty fast in some sections.

In the morning it started with a ride to the starting point, to a footbridge about 15km from Vang Vieng. The scenary in the usual picturesque, and peaceful, though many tourists see the same places daily, it isnt feel too crowded. Remember, I said family friendly,so, cant be rock climbing with a 6 years old, and I dont mind that.

This was the starting point.

Just across the bridge was the first cave, Called Elephant Cave. This is a small cave with some Buddha statues, and a "rock" which shape resemble an elephant, thus the name. Honestly, it isnt much to watch there, not particularly pretty, guess it was more a selling point in the program. Bellow some photo from it:

From here we walked threw a village and some ricefields to our second cave.

This was more interesting, and a real special one. It was called Tham Naam, or Water Cave. As the name suggest, water was involved. This cave has a river flowing through it. When the water level not too high anymore, there is a chance for tubing into the cave. This is something we never did, and was fun. After you saddle up with some low-voltage headlight, you grab a big truck tire ( the inside), and kind a sit/lay on the top, using it as a boat. There was a rope to follow, like Ariadne's in the Labirinth. There was no Minotaurus, but it was semi-dark. The water is a bit cold, but not unpleasently, and crystal clear. We so plenty of fishes. And in the cave though it was mostly some kind of hard stone, vulcanic probably,but also had some stalactites.

In the middle of the photo is the entrance to the to the cave. Better watch your head!!

After some lunch in the the tour company provided, we headed back to the car, what took us a but downriver. This way we had a safer and shorter section in the kayak, and actually it was enough. My family never tried such, so I had a little fear, but all went well. The current helped a lot, it was not too much paddling needed, was more a fun ride, enjoying a lazy way to getting back to Vang Vieng. That we were tired was more because the sunshine and hear, I think.

Overall, a nice day, for a total cost of 25$ for 3 person, including lunch, a good value for money.

This photo is at the end of the trip. Wish i could have more on the water photos, but was afraid to risk my camera, as I lost prior one this way.

The Laos trip: Vang Vieng, Day 1

After we arrived to Vang Vieng finally, naturally the first thing was to find some room in a Guest house. As mentioned previously, this trip was a real last minute and spontaneous one, and so was finding the room.

From the road it was around 150 meters walk to the town's main street ( though that time didn't know just yet this is it), and there the second Guest house we asked about room had one free room for our budget. It all took 10 minutes looking, nice.

The room was clean, a bit smallish is size, with fan and its own bathroom, and came at a cost f around 6$/night. Not bad at all for the location.

After shower and change, as it was still just mid afternoon, we had a look around.

The town isn't real big, and with the hills in the background some of the views reminded me so much about Krabi. But Krabi has the sea, and Vang Vieng got the Nam Song river.

Now they are already into the dry season, so, seeing the programs of the local travel agents, we picked some cave visits, followed by kayaking back on the river to Vang Vieng.

All done, dinner was some pizza, and some local, none is really tasted good. I had some problem in the whole Laos trip about food the most I think. However there banana pancake is just as good as here, and they were selling it in every 50 meters in the night.

Should I say we didn't have to watch TV long to fall asleep? Not as we got TV in the room for 6$.

Vang Vieng street view with the hills in the background.

A wooden bridge over the Nam Song river. It has a fast current, but the water is rather shallow in the dry season.

The Laos trip: Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang, Intro

It was a long time plan to visit a bit further into Laos, then to Vientiane, which is only around 30km from the Thai border.
Since due to visa reasons I had to leave Thailand anyway, we decided to make this a family holiday and explore a bit more of Laos. Chose Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang for the trip, though I didn't make big research about the trip, I heard before they are places where you can spend the time and see things. Destination set, had to arrange the trip, at least the getting there part first, as there was no set plan at all.
We chose to buy a ticket to bus via a travel agency on Khao San Road, as they suppose to have cheaper prices, and could send us to Vientiane with no need to use taxis much.
We bought the ticket from ETC ( Educational Travel Center) and as it turned out exactly that was, educational! They were thicket reseller to another company, a common thing. Our son is 6, he still prefer to sit with us, sleep rather in our lap on the bus; a kid still. We bought 2 ticket because of this, as always on buses this far. But made sure, asked them.
The bus left next night, we are there, bag and ready, the people at the bus said that we need a ticket for my son!! Wow, shock rather, as ours was not too cheap neither, and I asked this prior, got the green sign. Some verbal fights, as I felt cheated, and also because I said that I pay, but I will need an actual ticket/receive then, I don't like this sort of pocket monies to pay for scams. Anyway, finally we got onto the bus, and was on the way, but after some bad start.
The estimated time they gave was 13 hours to Vientiane, from Bangkok. A long way, though I believe it can be a bit less. Actually I know, as coming home with different company took much less. Lesson learnt, never again with them!!
We arrived to Vientiane at around 9AM and there got to a local bus to continue the journey to Vang Vieng.
Local bus is a cheap, and sometimes fun way to travel, although a considerable slower way to. But there you can watch locals, if looking out the window inst interesting.
This trip took 5 hours, and it was mostly interesting to look out the window. Soon the bus left the town, the villages started to be smaller, and around 2 hours later we reach the first hills.
The stone/brick homes changed to wooden and bamboo houses mainly, less traffic on the road, and many more potholes. After 3 hours shaking it was real welcome to arrive finally.
We were around 20 hours on the road already, more then enough to travel at once.
Anyway, so much about getting there, and for prologue, then next post will be already about what we did and saw there.

Going to Vacation

In the next week or so, I will go to a little vacation ( well deserved I think) with my family.
The destination is Laos.
Though we will go Vientiane again, we don't plan to stop there this time, only to change bus, as we will head to Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng. Something new to explore, and I looking forward to have some nice photos to share here when I will come back.
However, I am not looking forward to the bus ride, tonight, which takes around 13 hours, and maybe another 4 hours from Vientiane to Vang Vieng.
Well, did someone said travelling is fun??!!

Vientiane, the capital of Laos

I have the luck to visit Vientiane for 3 times in the past. It was partly of my curiosity and partly as the visa rules of Thailand. Not go to the matter, but they are a bit strange. But whatever.

All times I chose to take the night bus, which is not the most comfortable way to sleep, but since it takes around 12 hours the trip from Bangkok's Morchit bus station to Nong Khai, this way at least i didn't waste the day for traveling. From Nong Khai it is a few kilometers tuk-tuk ride to the Friendship Bridge, what connects Thailand and Laos over the Mekong river.

I am being lazy ( sometimes) I always get visa at arrival on the Lao side, then take another tuk-tuk to Vientiane.

Though Vientiane is the capital of Laos, after Bangkok, it seems a small town, and actually it is in comparison. I find it refreshing, that actually the air is better, there is no continuous traffic jams, and the whole place seems more relaxed, including the people as well. Vientiane didn't get commercialized as some other places of the World, though probably this will change as well in the future.

Always stay in some small guesthouse, close to the main place, the market/bus station, and Patuxai, the Victory Gate, in the middle of a small park. It is one religious style building, though in a different way, as it serves as a great lookout also, if you climb up to the 7th story, and there is numerous small shops along the staircase. The view is great, and can really see far, there is not many building to obstruct your view. The city has few tall buildings, and even those are less then 10 stories high I guess.

There is many things to visit, but most places to see in Vientiane are also connected to religion, just in the neighbor Thailand.

They have their Haw Pha Kaew Temple, where they once displayed that Emerald Buddha statue that is in Bangkok's Wat Phra Kaew now. The Lao took that from Thai one time, but later Thai got it back. Now the building not function much as a temple anymore, though it is still nice, and has a nice garden as well.

And there is Laos symbol, and probably their most important religious monument, Pha That Luang.
Pha That Luang is a 3 layered stupa, all golden, really look beautiful in the sunshine.
You can get into the inner layers, though not into the stupa itself, and it isn't a real building. Stupas built to house religious relics or bones.
They also feature Pha That Luang on their banknotes, I should have a little more about that in a separate post.



Finally, Laos brings back some little memories from my childhood, as my home country used to be communist until I was 14. Laos is still communist, so, you can see the kids in pioneer school uniforms some place, with blue, or red scarf/tie?, whatever is the right word for it, in the neck.
Deja vu, I used to have like that as a child too.